Secrets of the Skin

The skin itself is an extremely complex organ. It consists of the epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue.

Among its most important functions are protection against pathogens and harmful external factors, but few people actually know that it is the stratum corneum that is responsible for the state of balance of the skin. This inconspicuous structure consists of cells, between which is a layer of fatty substances called intercellular cement. It is formed by 3 main fatty substances: ceramides, cholestreol and free fatty acids (FFA). They are the ones that form an occlusive layer, preventing excessive water loss from the epidermis. Thus, they protect the skin from drying out. The hydrolipid mantle is responsible for the proper pH of the skin (which is slightly acidic, optimally at 5.5). It protects the skin from the penetration of irritants and allergens.

The thickness of the BHL itself and the proportion of compounds in its composition change with age. The protective barrier is thickest during infancy, when cholesterol is also its main component. As the years pass and the skin ages, the cholesterol layer partially disappears and is replaced by lipids such as squalene, which comes from the sebaceous glands.

And have you wondered why maintaining the right pH is so important for the hydrolipid mantle layer?

Slightly acidic pH creates the right environment for the activity of enzymes, which synthesize (produce) stratum corneum lipids. In addition, disruption of the skin’s pH can contribute to developing infections, as the hydrolipid layer then becomes an ideal breeding ground for microorganisms. Of course, the pH of the skin of men and women differs, also depending on the part of the body, but about that another time 🙂

Damage to the hydrolipid barrier of the epidermis

Exogenous factors – coming from outside

It is caused primarily by inadequate skin care. Using irritating cleansers (such as SLS, SLES), scrubs and not applying moisturizers, as well as sunscreens, significantly disrupts the hydrolipid barrier.

Cool air dries out the skin, but so does hot air, as does UV radiation – it’s extremely damaging to the skin. Not only does it degrade the lipid components of sebum, which contributes to the disruption of the skin’s water balance, but it also destroys the ceramides contained in the intercellular cement and leads to the destruction of collagen and elastin fibers.

Endogenous factors – coming from within

These include, first and foremost, endocrine disorders associated with various endocrine diseases and menopause, during which estrogen levels drop, resulting in a decrease in the production of lipids and glycosaminoglycans in the skin.

All of these factors can contribute to disruption of proper hydration levels. It is crucial because it affects the biochemical processes taking place in the skin tissues. Among other things, it enables the proper functioning of fibrillar proteins, responsible for building collagen and elastin fibers. In dry skin, the amount of collagen and elastin decreases.

Symptoms of skin imbalance

These include not only dryness, but also redness or cracking of the epidermis. We may also encounter roughness and discomfort in the form of itching or burning.

Disruption of the hydrolipid barrier does not only affect dry skin. It is also often found in oily, acne-prone, vascular skin, but we will write about that next time.

What about nursing?

So let’s start with washing:

• Use mild agents that will not affect the pH. In the composition of your gel or cleansing lotion, pay attention to mild cleansing agents, such as cocamidopropylbetaine or coco-glucoside, and beware of sodium salts (SLS, SLES and others).
• Gently pat your skin dry with a towel. It is not advisable to wipe it excessively, but take care not to leave it damp alone to dry, as this may involve evaporation of water and immediate dryness.
• Remember that for dry skin, it should be moisturized within 2-3 minutes after wiping. If you wait longer, the water will evaporate.
• Ensure a diet rich in vitamins A, D, C and E. Regularly replenish omega 3 and 6 acids, which you’ll find in fish, oils and seeds and seeds.
• Don’t forget to stay hydrated, drink enough water throughout the day (1.5-2 L per day).

You will encounter different types of scrubs on the market, including mechanical (granular), enzymatic (with different types of enzymes) and chemical (acid). Remember that excessive exfoliation deprives the skin of its bacterial flora, which also leads to a violation of epidermal continuity and dryness.

If you feel the need for deep cleansing, opt for a selection of cosmetics. For this, use BHA or AHA acids (this is the stronger of the two), but if you are “sensitive,” look for PHA acids. Of the enzymes, choose gentle ones, such as pumpkin enzyme.

In your daily routine, it’s worth making sure to support the skin’s repair processes. Preferably during sleep, as this is when the body recovers.

Try cosmetics whose ingredients our skin is able to “know” even immediately. And treat it as your own. We are referring, of course, to lipids and ceramides. Without hesitation, you can incorporate them into your nightly skin care routine, thereby supporting your skin.

In your morning care, make sure as much as possible to use ingredients rich in humectants, that is, ingredients that will bind water in the epidermis. Such substances include glycerin and hyaluronic acid.

A basic care plan from PureStory:

MORNING:

1. Cleansing Milk – gentle cleansing of the skin without disturbing its pH
2. Vitamin Shot Serum – a dose of natural vitamin E and vitamin C, for strengthening blood vessels and proper hydration
3. Deep Moisture Cream – ultra-deep nourishment and hydration of the skin with precious active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin and squalane

EVENING:

1. Cleansing Milk – washing away the day’s impurities
2. Age Defence Serum – restoration and elasticity
3. Deep Moisture Cream if you have normal skin, and for dry skin
4. Lipid Repair Balm – a unique cosmetic containing 3 main substances of the intercellular cement: cholesterol, ceramides and EFAs. It will allow your skin to rest and breathe, and due to the content of naturally occurring substances in the skin, your skin will feel “at home” and will certainly thank you 🙂